Finnlife Valo Log Cabin
In case you want to use the Finnlife Valo Log Cabin as a guest room, hobby hideaway, or your own library you'll find the Valo is more than capable of delivering. As soon as the door is closed you'll find yourself in a world of your own. The Finnlife Valo is about going back to basics: you, nature and the things you care for most.
Arrange the Valo to face the south and the sun will neaver appear to set. A wonderfully welcoming log cabin like this catches the sun at pretty much any angle. from break of day to dusk of eve, the light of the sun will come streaking through those enormous side windows; In the middle of the day, you'll get warming sunshine right through the doors.If it gets too hot, you can always push open the doors and windows. Too cold, simply shut them tight to keep the warmth inside. Even on a dull or rainy day, the Valo's fabulous 90-degree views will lure you into the garden.
This log cabin's components are precision-cut from quality Scandanavian softwood for a perfect fit, first time and every time. The timber comes from well managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist - and where the rate of tree planting exceeds the rate of felling.
Cabin Measurements
The Valo comes with these features as standard:
· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions
Look out for optional extras:
· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating
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Build your very own Finnlife Valo Log Cabin
The long summer afternoons might be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it is put together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction abilities are required. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!
You could present this document to a handyman then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever completes the work, the initial stage is to understand fully these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.
For features that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.
Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.
Foundations and preparation: You can erect your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not match up.
Before you begin to erect you should make sure that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every piece lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each piece near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to lay pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.
Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.
Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray sawdust. Dust-free joints provide a better fit. Walls are built by laying wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now fix the location of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.
Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.
Constructing the gable ends indicates a succession of openings for the roof beams. As each opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fix by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.
Set ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Set the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have put the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.
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Finnlife Models
finnlife jarvi |
finnlife lampi |
finnlife hytti |
finnlife seita |
finnlife kesa |
finnlfe puro |
finnlife valo |
finnlife kulma |
finnlife mirva |
finnlife mokki |
finnlife peile |
finnlife reikko |
finnlife susi |
finnlife talo |
finnlife helppo |
finnlife helsinki |
finnlife ikkuna |
finnlife joki |
finnlife koppelo |
finnlife lovisa |
finnlife pori |
finnlife suoja |
finnlife teeri |
finnlife teos
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