Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

The Finn Life Teos log cabin by Finnforest is part of the Finnlife range of quality garden buildings.

The cleanly, lighted, spacious and Finnlife Teos Log Cabin gives the occupant a complete 180 degree view of his or her garden with surrounding windows on every side.

For added flexibility, the large opening window is able to be arranged on either the left or right side wall.

Dimensions

External Width 4.204m

Depth 2.704m

Ridge Height 3.580m

Area 12.39m2

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - Instruction Guide

Lovely, lazy summer evenings may be calling, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is put together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife Teos log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

You may present this text to a professional builder then sit back until he delivers the keys to your finished Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever finishes the task, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is important. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to build you should ensure that you have a full set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every component close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to lay components too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s recommended running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any leftover sawdust. Dust-free joints ensure a better fit. Walls are built by laying wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now fix the location of the underlying, outermost floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards effectively. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to erect the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Place the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

Return to top

Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Teos Cabin

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - Instruction Guide

Finnlife Models