Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

The Finnlife Teeri log cabin is a part of the Finnforest Finn Life range.

Think about it: right now you could be outside enjoying the sunshine, or in your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin enjoying games and drinking a cool juice. You could be spending time by yourself in the Teeri's secluded rear room; instead you want to be the focus of attention in the L-shaped main room. During the week it's back to business - your able to use the Teeri for hosting events too! Never a dull moment.

Finnforest log cabin components are precision-cut from top quality Scandinavian softwood for an immaculate fit. The timber comes from well-managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist. Building your Finnlife Teeri log cabin using the excellent plans supplied is simple and straightforward. The result is a professional-looking job that you'll be happy to call your own.

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

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Build yourself a Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

The long summer afternoons may be calling, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it goes together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Teeri log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t have to do it without any help!

It’s possible to show this text to a professional builder then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. However, whoever completes the work, the initial step is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the accurate base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the end outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to erect you should ensure that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every piece set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every piece close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to set pieces too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Lay out the floor beams at uniform intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is ready you can then go back and remove away any additional polythene/DPC membrane showing. Make Sure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Lay one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards end in a flushed ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board must be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When making the Finnlife Cabin during the summer periods, we advise to leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the colder periods. Where building during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Make Sure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is approximately straight. If needed use a saw to trim it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Lay ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have put the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Teeri Cabin

Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

Build yourself a Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

Finnlife Models