Finnlife Susi Log Cabin

Observe as the Finnforest Susi Log Cabin transforms into the perfect outdoor games room.

The fully glazed window and twin doors ensure good access to this log cabin and a light and airy environment. The Finnlife Susi's toughness is guaranteed by 44mm thick cladding and interlocking corners. The generous area makes it an ideal all-purpose building including outdoor games room or garden office.

# Interlocking construction
# Eye-catching shingle roof
# 1 opening window
# Glazed double door
# 44mm cladding

See individual retailers for such extras as underfloor heating

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Building Dimension Width Depth Eaves Height Ridge Height
Finnforest Susi 380cm 296cm 0cm 272cm
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 380cm 296cm 0cm 272cm

Windows
Finnforest Susi 1 opening windows
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 1 opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Finnforest Susi 0cm 0cm
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material

Finnforest Susi Styrene
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Tongue & Groove

Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Finnforest Susi 4.4cm
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 4.4cm

Return to top

Finnlife Log Cabin Construction

Lovely, slow summer evenings might be beckoning, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Susi log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

It’s possible to present this document to a carpenter then relax until he hands over the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, whoever does the job, the initial step is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valoife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finn Life Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a complete set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every component near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Note again that if your Finn Life Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Lay the full-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance. Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If necessary, adjust the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Ensure that the structure is square by comparing the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second level of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a smooth fit, you should tap each set down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not been supplied with an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s simple to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Lay ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have placed the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.

Return to top

Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Susi Cabin

Finnlife Susi Log Cabin

Finnlife Log Cabin Construction

Finnlife Models