Finnlife Peile Log Cabin

The Finnlife Peili Log Cabin is a sublime log cabin which offers a great-sized space inside and enough room for you to create something truly unique for yourself and your garden.

Like all log cabins in the Finnforest range, the Finn Life Peili is designed with top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry.

Use the Well illustrated, step-by-step plans that come supplied with your cabin making assembly of the building simpler and very straightforward.

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual

DIMENSIONS

Height:9'5" (2.9m)
Width:9'7" (2.96m)
Depth:14'11" (4.34m)

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - see individual retailers for details.

Build a Finnlife Peille Log Cabin

Those slow summer evenings may be coming, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is put together, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry knowledge are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It’s possible to show this document to a handyman then take it easy until he hands over the keys to your completed Finnlife Log Cabin. However, whoever does the job, the initial stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you start to erect you should ensure that you have a complete set of pieces. Check off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every piece close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any leftover cutdust. Dust-free joints provide a better fit. Walls are built by seting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the position of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not extend externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards finish in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board should be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to take it out later on. When making the Finnlife Log Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the colder periods. Where constructing during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Set it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a cut to trim it flush. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Set ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Set the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have laid the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Peile Cabin

Finnlife Peile Log Cabin

Build a Finnlife Peille Log Cabin

Finnlife Models