Finnlife Lovis Log Cabin

Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin

The Finn-life Lovisa Log Cabin: Attractive, Functional and Exciting!

The Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin is a gorgeous cabin giving you an awesome amount of terraced area and a roomy space inside with even more internal room offering you more options and the scope to rearrange and improve.

Like all log cabins in the Finnlife range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife are harmonious.

One of only two log cabins (the
Finnlife Helsinki
being the other) that features an upstairs storage area accessable via a ladder. Use it as a storage space, use it as a hideaway, the choice is yours!

Well illustrated, step-by-step plans are supplied with your cabin making assembly more simple and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood is packed in protective plastic and comes packaged in the correct order for assembly, saving you time.

Why buy the Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin

* Very well structured
* Storage Space
* Gorgeous features
* Easy to convert Sauna Space
* Upstairs room
* Front terrace
* Fully Glazed windows
* Spacious Interior

What is the building used for:

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 45mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual
* Outside terrace
* Upstairs space accessed by ladder

DIMENSIONS

Internal: 5.64m x 3.63m (18ft 6in x 11ft 11in)
External: 5.90m x 5.94m (19ft 3in x 19ft 5in)
Total Internal Area: 20.48m² (220 ft²)
Total External Area: 30.52m² (329 ft²)
Ridge Height: 3.40m (11ft 2in")

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Construct the Lovisa Log Cabin at Home

Fantastic, long summer days might be coming, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to work out how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t have to do it without any help!

You might present this document to a handyman then relax until he hands over the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. However, whoever finishes the task, the first step is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is important. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the end outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to build you should check that you have a full set of components. Check off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each component near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Lay out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Cabin is finished you can then go back and trim away any extra polythene/DPC membrane showing. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Cabin is square. Lay one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is in direct contact with the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards end in a flush ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board may be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When making the Finn Life Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest to leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the colder periods. When building during the winter months we would advise knocking the boards together, to minimize any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line made by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a saw to remove it flush. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Lay ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.



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Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos

 
March 10, 2010
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