Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin

The Finnlife Lampi log cabin is a member of the Finnforest quality range of outdoor buildings.

Een while it comes in a smaller package, the Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin still has loads to offer. It can be your very own hideaway, home office, storage area or kids playroom.

The Finn Life Lampi is the answer you are looking for!

The Finnforest Lampi is composed of Scandinavian design, with logs of 28mm in thickness. The compact size of this superb log cabin is simply ideal for those who need everything in their garden

The roof and floor is made up of Tongue and Groove which makes this cabin even more stable and sturdy and gives it superb longevity. This building features two opening windows and glazed door, providing a chic look.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION
View dimensions in: MetricImperial
Warranty 15 year guarantee

Building Dimension Width Depth Eaves Height

Ridge Height
Lampi 296cm 200cm 0cm 231cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 296cm 200cm 0cm 231cm

Windows
Lampi 2 opening windows
Lampi with underfloor heating 2 opening windows
Door Opening Size (w x h)
Lampi 0cm 0cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material

Lampi Styrene
Lampi with underfloor heating Styrene
Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Lampi 2.8cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 2.8cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Glazing Thickness 0cm

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How to Construct A Finnlife Log Cabin

Fantastic, long summer evenings might be coming, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it goes together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!

You may present this text to a handyman then relax until he delivers the keys to your finished Finnlife Cabin. However, no matter who finishes the task, the first step is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins [Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to build you should make sure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each part near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put parts too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Place out the floor beams at uniform intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is ready you can then go back and trim away any extra polythene/DPC membrane showing. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Place one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards finish in a flushed ridge line. Mark the centre line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board should be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked centre line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to take it out later on. When making the Finnlife Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. When building during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to minimize any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Place it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If needed use a saw to trim it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the first row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Place the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Lampi Cabin

Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin

How to Construct A Finnlife Log Cabin

Finnlife Models