Finnlife Kulma Log Cabin

Outdoor fun circles around the Finnlife Kulma Log Cabin.
If your garden was an outdoor playing field then that would make the Finn Life Kulma Log Cabin your pavilion. The Finnlife Kulma seems custom-designed for serving refreshments and watching sport.

Worry not about rain or the dreaded bad light. The inside is so roomy, the food, drink and banter - sporting and otherwise - can carry on all through the night!

Why buy the Finnforest Kulma Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood harvested from sustainable forests.
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Width:
Internal: 3.82m
External: 4.08m

Depth:
Internal: 2.94m
External: 3.20m

Ridge Height
External: 3.01m

Area:
Internal: 9.90m²
External: 11.56m²


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How to build your own Finnlife Log Cabin

Wonderful lazy summer evenings may be beckoning, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it is put together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

It’s possible to present this document to a handyman then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, no matter who finishes the task, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is crucial. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to build you should make sure that you have a full set of components. Check off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each component close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Put out the floor beams at uniform intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Cabin is built you can then go back and trim away any unnecessary polythene/DPC membrane visible. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Cabin is square. Put one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is in direct contact with the underlying foundations.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the last shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Put the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.



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Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos