Finnlife Koppelo Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kopello Log Cabin: The multipurpose hall that never closes - snooker, dance or village.

The Finnforest Kopello log cabin is manufactured using quality wood from sustained forests.

Why buy the Finnforest Kopello Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 44mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.1m
External: 3.8m

Depth:
Internal: 5.07m
External: 5.36m

Ridge Height
External: 2.7m

Area:
Internal: 17.81m²
External: 20.36m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - consult your retailer for details.

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Construct the Koppelo Log Cabin

Sumptuous, lounging summer afternoons may be beckoning, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it is constructed, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are needed. Anyone can build a Finnlife Koppelo log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It is possible to show this document to a professional builder then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, whoever finishes the task, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the footprint of your Finn Life Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you start to build you should make sure that you have a complete set of components. Check off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you see how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Pull the frame apart again and squeeze PVA adhesive into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Push the sides together tightly. Ensure that the frame is square by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess adhesive from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out completely between wipes to stop adhesive smearing onto the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, fix all corners with the screws provided.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends shows a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As each gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fix by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the ending shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Set the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Koppelo Cabin

Finnlife Koppelo Log Cabin

Construct the Koppelo Log Cabin

Finnlife Models