Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

The Finn-life Ikkuna Log Cabin: Just what you need to work at home.

No matter what your job, be it architect, graphic designer, office worker, the Ikkuna provids all the space you need.

What do all these people need? The Finn-life Ikkuna Log Cabin- a redefinition of the concept of home office. Here, you dont so much work from home as live near the office. Still, it's your own place, so do with it what you like.

Why buy the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 4.37m
External: 4.64m

Depth:
Internal: 5.01m
External: 6.33m

Ridge Height
External: 3.50m

Area:
Internal: 21.56m²
External: 29.40m²

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Build the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Beautiful, lounging summer evenings may be calling, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it goes together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

You may show this text to a handyman then sit back until he delivers the keys to your completed Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whoever finishes the task, the initial step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should check that you have a full set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every part close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to lay parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Note again that if your Finn Life Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches shows where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If necessary, adjust the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Ensure that the structure is square by comparing the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second level of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a smooth fit, you should tap each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When erecting the Finn Life Log Cabin during the hotter months, we advise that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where building during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a saw to remove it flush. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Ikkuna Cabin

Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Build the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Finnlife Models