Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin

The Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin is the only workshop that lets you take up as much space as you like without getting in anyone elses way.

Whether doing it yourself or gardening, each way you'll love that free feeling that comes from having your very own place to work - a place where everything is close at hand.

The Finnlife Hytti has all the room you'll need for tools, a workbench, office equipment, whatever. Plus, there is a door that you can close and let you get on with the things that are really important.

Why buy the Finnforest Hytti Log Cabin?

* Made from Scandinavian White Wood
* Workshop features 19mm thick logs
* A great building for storage

This shed is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers. Shop around for extras and bargains!

DIMENSIONS:
Internal Width: 2.36m (7'8")
External Width: 2.60m (8'8")
Internal Depth: 1.76m (5'9")
External Depth: 2.00m (6'6")
Ridge Height: 2.05m (6'8")
Internal Area: 4.15m² (45 square feet)
External Area: 5.20m² (56 square feet)

How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Fantastic, slow summer afternoons might be beckoning, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

It is possible to present this document to a carpenter then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, no matter who does the job, the first step is to get to know these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins [Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the base of your Finn Life Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you begin to build you should make sure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every part close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to place parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any remaining cutdust. Dust-free joints provide a better fit. Walls are built by placeing wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the location of the underlying, outermost floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not extend externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards effectively. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the ending shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Place the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Hytti Cabin

Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin

How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Finnlife Models