Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin

Whether you want to use your Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin as a place for guests, hobby hideaway, or personal library you'll find the Helsinki is totally capable of delivering. Once the door is closed you'll find yourself in a world of your own. The Finn Life Helsinki is about returning to nature.

The Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin is the ultimate in log cabin design

Super flexy, spacy and airiated. If you have space restrictions then the Helsinki Log Cabin is the answer. The Helsinki is truly a castle in its own right, featuring 5 rooms.

A set of steps leads up from the below to an fantastic storage area upstairs. This space has a million uses that will easily adapt to any of your needs;

The Helsinki Log Cabin will solve all your space problems in one go. There’s room for a business that can be run from home, entertain an endless string of guests, or even have a gym.
Why buy the Finnforest Helsinki Log Cabin?

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood

* 45mm wall logs

* Timber joists

* Pre-cut floor & roof boards

* Roof shingles

* Ready made, fully glazed doors

* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens

* All necessary fixtures and fittings

* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual

* Outside terrace

* Upstairs space accessed by ladder

* Felt shingle roof.

* Large cabin with 5 internal rooms.

* Incorporates decked terrace area.

* Separate handy loft area for storage.

* French doors and opening windows supplied with double glazed toughened glass.

* Size approx cabin external (H)358, ridge, (W)979, (D)514cm / (H)11ft 9in, (W)32ft, (D)16ft 10in.

* Size internal (H)328, ridge, (W)953, (D)398cm / (H)10ft 9in, (W)31ft 3in, (D)13ft 1in.

* Requires a quality timber treatment after assembly (treatment not included).

* Supplied in kit form containing all the components and instructions required for self assembly.

* Manufactured from Scandinavian whitewood.

* 44mm tongue and groove wall boarding provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year round use.

* Traditional timber tongue and groove ceiling and flooring.

* Wind block system ensures a tight wind-proof seal.

DIMENSIONS
Internal External
Width 9.53m 9.79m
Depth 3.98m 5.15m
Ridge Height - 3.56m
Area 29.97msq 50.39msq

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Build yourdelf a Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin

Relaxing, slow summer days might be enticing, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it without any help!

You may present this document to a professional builder then sit back until he hands over the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who completes the work, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is essential. Care given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to build you should check that you have a complete set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every part near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to lay parts too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Start with the half-height wall boards. They form the primary and bottom level. Set them across the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finn Life Cabin includes internal walls, also lay the half-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance.

Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The location of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Set the first layer of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints gap together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Set them in the proper position.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Set the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Helsinki Cabin

Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin

Build yourdelf a Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin

Finnlife Models