Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

Western USA-style lifes brings the big west to the back of your house!

The Finn Life Helppo Log Cabin's views are incredibly wide, so much so you may think you're in Texas. Here, the possibilities are totally endless. There's plenty of room for storage and also room for play - the Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin also gives you all the time in the world to enjoy the views. If you want, you can still keep yourself busy. Walk around the veranda and see the world from a different angle.

Why buy the Finnforest Helppo Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 34mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Floor and roof T&G
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Roof colour is Green and shingles are square

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.73m
External: 5.70m

Depth:
Internal: 2.83m
External: 4.50m

Ridge Height
External: 29.70m

Area:
Internal: 10.57m²
External: 25.65m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating from selected stockists.

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How to be a builder of your very own Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

Wonderful long summer days might be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife Helppo log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!

It is possible to present this document to a professional builder then relax until he hands over the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who does the job, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is critical. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the end outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not match up.

Before you start to build you should ensure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each part near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to set parts too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Set out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Cabin is ready you can then go back and remove away any additional polythene/DPC membrane showing. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Cabin is square. Set one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is in direct contact with the underlying foundations.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards effectively. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Set ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Set the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have laid the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Helppo Cabin

Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

How to be a builder of your very own Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

Finnlife Models