Finn-life Cabins

Luxury Log Cabins from Finnforest

One thing alone has brought you here, you're desire for a Finn-life log cabinLucky for you you're just a couple of clicks away from log cabin bliss. Read specifications and view images of finn life log cabins from the small but perfectly formed Finnlife Jarvi, the multipurpose Finnlife Mokki to the irresistable Finnlife Helsinki, and compare prices from the leading retailers. Want to get started? Click your favourite image below and Compare Now!

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Construct an amazing Finnlife Log Cabin

Relaxing, long summer afternoons may be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it alone!

It’s possible to show this text to a handyman then sit back until he hands over the keys to your finished Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, no matter who finishes the task, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should check that you have a full set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every part close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to lay parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.


Note again that if your Finn Life Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches shows where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If necessary, adjust the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Ensure that the structure is square by comparing the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second level of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a smooth fit, you should tap each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When erecting the Finn Life Log Cabin during the hotter months, we advise that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where building during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a saw to remove it flush. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

A Carpentry Glossary

Glossary of terms
Carpentry Terminology

Architrave - A moulding used to surround a door, window, arch or wooden panelling, or the lowest horizontal moulding of a classical entablature.

Bay window - A window that extends out from the wall of a room, often to floor level giving additional internal floor area.

Beading - A narrow strip of wood with a half round profile used as an ornamental edging.

Bolster chisel - A broad-bladed chisel, normally completely made of steel) used mainly for masonry work but useful for lifting floorboards etc. .

Brace - A diagonal member used to prevent part of a structure from sagging - can either be temporary or permanent.

Cantilever - A projecting beam (or other part of a structure) that is secured at one end only.

Casement window - A window that has vertically and/or horizontally hinged openings and may include non-opening sections of glazing.

Caulking - Sealing joints by applying a flexible compound or sealant.

Chair rail - Another term for dado rail.

Chalk line - A length of string, coated in chalk dust, which is used to produce accurate straight lines for many decorating tasks. The line is held at both ends and 'twanged' against a surface thus transferring chalk dust to it.

Chipboard - A manufactured building board made from compressed and glued wooden particles.

Counter-bore - To insert a suitable screw into a surface so that its head does not protrude above that surface. This is achieved by using screws in a hole 'counterbored' with a flat bottomed cutter. If the counterbore is deep enough, it may be plugged with a piece of doweling to fully hide the screw head.

Counter-sink - To insert a suitable screw into a surface so that its head does not protrude above that surface. This is achieved by using counter sink screws in a hole 'countersunk' with a conical-shaped cutter.

Cross grain - Wood grain that is not inline with the main axis of a length of timber.

Dado - Decorative and/or protective panelling on the lower part of an interior wall. AKA Wainscot.

Dado rail - A moulding attached along a wall, about 1 metre (3ft 4in) from the floor, separating the upper and lower areas of the wall. Originally intended to protect the wall from damage by chair backs. AKA Chair Rail.

Dormer window - The window in the vertical end of a dormer.

Dovetail nailing - Nails driven through one piece of wood at opposing angles into another piece thus making it difficult for the timbers to be pulled apart.

Dowel - A short length of wood, round in section, used for a variety of purposes such as joining timbers, plugging fixing holes etc.

Drip groove - A groove cut in the underside of a projection (such as a window sash or sill) to cause rainwater to drip to the ground rather than running under the projection onto the main structure.

End grain - The surface of wood exposed after cutting across the fibres.

Escutcheon - In door furniture, the ornamental and protective plate around the keyhole.

Fanlight - The glazed light above a door, often fan-shaped and ornamented - however the term is applied to any shape of light above a door.

Feather-edged boarding - Plain weatherboard tapering in thickness; the thick edge overlaps the thin edge of the adjacent board - the fixing should go in the thick edge missing the edge of the board underneath. When hung horizontally, the thick edge goes downwards, when used vertically for fencing etc, the thick edge should be away from the prevailing winds.

Fibreboard - A lightweight manufactured board material with little strength, can be used in ceilings or as insulation to attics.

Fielded panel - A wall or door panel with a raised centre area which is sloped off, bevelled or 'fielded' towards the edges.

Finial - A turned or carved ornament usually in the shape of an urn, ball, bun, spike or figure, often used to decorate the ends of staircase newel posts.

Firrings - Pieces of tapered timber fixed to the top of joists to adjust their slope. Can be used under rook decking to give a drainage fall or to bring a sloping surface level.

Fish plate - Steel plates used to join two pieces of timber end to end - the plates (one on each side) overlap both pieces and are secured using bolts through.

Flush door - Doors which have plain, smooth sides - either constructed with a solid or honeycombed core, surfaced with plywood or other laminate on each side.

Fluting - Parallel concave channels used to decorate the surfaces of stone, plaster or timber etc.

French windows - A pair of narrow casement windows that extend to floor level forming a doorway to the garden or other outside area. Traditionally they opened inwards (as traditionally do windows in France), but modern ones may vary.

Glazing bars - The framing members in a window sash which divide and contain the individual glass panes.

Halved joint - Many variation exist; but the principle is that half of each piece of timber is cut away and the remaining halves are fitted over each other.

Hardboard - A thin manufactured board made from compressed wooden particles - one side smooth, the other side rough, Used for covering subfloors etc.

I Beams - Manufactured joists comprising a thin vertical of manufactured board with wider timber fixed along the upper and lower edges. Provide increased loads over wider spans than can often be achieved using solid timbers.

Jamb - The vertical side part of a doorway or window frame.

Medium-density fibreboard (MDF) - A manufactured building board of compressed wooden fibres and used for a variety of interior joinery and building tasks. The dust is harmful and a mask should be used when cutting or drilling.

Mitre - A joint where the two parts are each cut at 45 degrees so that the make a neat rightangle.

Parquet flooring - A flooring traditionally made up of small wooden blocks arranged in a herring-bone or other geometrical pattern. Modern alternatives consist of thinner wooden panels which give the same effect.

Picture rail - A moulding positioned along a wall a short distance down from the ceiling, special hooks are then used to hook onto the rail to support pictures and other wall decorations. The wallpaper would often stop at the underside of the rail and area above would be painted. Were fashionable years ago, not so much now except in rooms with very high ceilings.

Picture window - A window comprising of a large, single pane or double/triple glazed unit.

Plywood - A manufactured building board consisting of a number of layers of wood veneer stuck together in such a way that the grain of one layer is at right angles to that of the previous layer. Various qualities of face veneer, thicknesses, number of layers etc are available to suit numerous applications

Rail - A horizontal or vertical strut used to make up a panelled door or window frame.

Rebate - An area of a window glazing bar recessed to take a pane of glass.

Sash window - A window consisting of two main frames that slide vertically past each other - each sash being counter balanced by a sash weight on a sash cord.

Spirit Level - A tool used to establish true vertical and horizontal lines by looking at a bubble in spirit filled vials.

Stile - The vertical member on each side of a framed door or window sash.

Straight grain - Grain (wood fibres) that aligns with the main axis of a length of timber.

Straightedge - A length of timber or metal with at least one edge truly straight for marking out, checking levels etc.

Stud wall - An internal, non-load bearing wall faced with lath and plaster or plasterboard. Often timber framed although metal frames are being introduced into domestic building - they have been used for many years in industrial ones.

Studs - The vertical wooden posts within a timber-frame wall.

Subfloor - The surface beneath a floor covering, usually of concrete or timber, and sometimes covered with hard board.

Suspended timber floors - The joists supporting the floor boards or chipboard are themselves supported by small "sleeper" walls at ground floor level or wall hangers at other floors. Older properties may have the joists built into the masonry walls which can lead to the ends of the joists rotting.

Timber frame - A method of building construction where the internal walls, floors, roof etc are manufactured in sections using timber off site and are erected onto a completed base built up from the foundations. In modern timber framed buildings, the inner timber construction is often covered by using an outer skin of brick or similar materials to give a traditional appearance.

Timber framed wall - A wall composed of structural wooden components, sheathed on both sides or infilled with masonry or wattle and daub.

Tongue and groove - A system of interlocking planks along the sides to produce a panelled surface.

Wainscot - Wood panelling or boarding on the lower part of an internal wall. AKA Dado.

Wood-block flooring - A type of wooden sheet flooring consisting of small blocks such as Parquet.

FROM: DIYData.com

Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos